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North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Overlord, Pangnirtung Fiord, Baffin Island

Overlord, Pangnirtung Fiord, Baffin Island. There are three prominent buttresses on the west side of Mount Overlord. The left one was climbed by Japanese in 1975 and the central one by a party from northern England also in 1975. During July of this year Dennis Hennek and I climbed the right buttress for the first time. We walked up Pangnirtung Fiord for 25 miles and spent a day and a half climbing up severe-grade slabs for 1500 feet unroped before ascending steep, mainly good granite for 20 long rope-lengths. The climbing was mostly HVS. By diligent route finding we had only three pitches on broken ground. There were only 50 feet of aid on the whole climb. The 20 pitches took 12 hours.

Douglas Scott, Alpine Climbing Group