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North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan, Centennial Ridge

Mount Logan, Centennial Ridge. On July 5 K. Blackwood, David P. Jones, J. (Kobi) Wyss and I were flown in from Kluane Lake by helicopter to a site at 8300 feet on a cirque level with the base of “Independence Ridge” (Blomberg’s route) but close to the flanks of the large ridge which meets with “Independence Ridge” at 15,000 feet. (Blackwood had to be evacuated on the 9th because of injury.) We propose the name “Centennial Ridge” in honour of the U.S. Bicentennial and the less recent Canadian Centennial. T. Kawakami referred to this ridge in A.A.J., 1966, page 150, indicating that they had intended to climb it in 1965 but instead did “Independence Ridge.” We occupied our camps as follows: I at 10,000 feet on July 8, II at 13,300 feet on July 12, III at 12,100 feet on July 23, IV at 13,700 feet on July 17, V at 16,100 feet on July 19, VI (the main scientific camp) at 17,400 feet on July 20. On July 30 a further camp (VII) was established beside the rocks near the summit of the West Peak at 19,410 feet, where a topographic survey was carried out. On July 31 Wyss reached the main summit (5951 meters or 19,524 feet). Jones, Wyss and I climbed the Northeast Peak (17,999 feet) on July 20 and Wyss and I reached the West Peak (19,410 feet) on July 29 and 30. We fixed 4250 feet of rope in the 9700 vertical feet between Base Camp and the Northeast Peak. The descent on snowshoes into the King Trench pick-up point at 10,800 feet was made on August 1. The aim of this expedition was to carry out scientific work; the visits to the higher peaks were necessary to carry out a topographic survey. A fuller account of the expedition will appear in the Canadian Alpine Journal, 1977.

Gerald Holdsworth, Environment Canada