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North America, United States, Wyoming, Matternaught Peak, Taminah Arête, Tetons

Matternaught Peak, Taminah Arête, Tetons. On August 29, Kent Lugbill and Jim Tate climbed an important new route, the prominent south ridge of this peak in Avalanche Canyon. This long and spectacular arête is seen in profile from Lake Taminah. Starting from the very toe of the ridge, the route led first up a face, or chimney since either will go, to the right, then on up the ridge past a section containing fine cracks in a geometric pattern. Easier rock then led to the next steep section which from below appeared to contain loose rock. Instead, it was full of large quartz crystals which provided relatively easy (F6) but very exciting climbing on the steep but poorly protected wall. The remainder of the route follows the crest of the arête as closely as possible on enjoyable and solid rock. The first-ascent party suggests that this route may be one of the better rock climbs in the Tetons. NCCS III, F7.