American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Idaho, Cirque Lake Peak, Southwest Spur, Warbonnet Peak Area, Sawtooth Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1977

Cirque Lake Peak, Southwest Spur, Warbonnet Peak Area, Sawtooth Mountains. On August 9 Paul Helmcke, A1 Schmidt and I completed the first ascent of the southwest spur of Cirque Lake Peak. From the Warbonnet Lakes we ascended to within 300 feet of the col west of the west buttress of Cirque Lake Peak. We scrambled diagonally right to a steep headwall 100 feet to the right of a rotten cleft between the west and southwest spurs of the peak. We continued diagonally right up the wall to a roomy platform and diagonally left on the second lead to a steep dihedral with a large flake. We climbed the flake until we could exit right to a ledge and the spur crest. The third lead followed the spur crest to its junction with the west ridge. The fourth and fifth leads continued along the west ridge to the base of the summit tower. We climbed a chimney on the south face to ledges and thence to the summit. NCCS III, F9.

Allan Errington

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