American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Nevada, New Routes on Juniper Mountain, Red Rock Canyon, Charleston Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1977

New Routes on Juniper Mountain, Red Rock Canyon, Charleston Range. Two interesting climbs were done on Juniper Mountain. Blackjack Buttress, a sharp prow facing the desert to the east, was climbed to its mid-pinnacle section on February 1 and 2 (with bivouac) by Alan Bartlett, Alan Roberts and me. The climb has excellent sandstone, but some of the pitches were very hard to protect; three pitches led by Bartlett were very steep (each F9). The final completion of the climb of the buttress was not logical, because of large ledges and a blank wall. A new rappel route was made, placing some bolts and pitons while hanging on the end of the rope. NCCS IV, F9. Juniper Buttress was climbed by Hooman Aprin, Mark Menge and me in February. This route, done in two days, follows the front of an obvious reddish buttress, quite visible from the desert frontage. The route was free except for one aid portion (several bolts placed here). NCCS III, F8, Al.

Fred Beckey

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