Three Penguins, Arches National Park. In November Larry Bruce, Molly Higgins and I did two short new routes on the Three Penguins formation. A moderate pitch starting right at the road ends on a large ledge at the base of the Penguins themselves. From here Larry led a spectacular chimney to the top. This had been tried several times before via the off-width on the outside of the crack, but after failing on this, Larry tunneled straight back into the chimney and did one of the most horrifying squeezers that I have ever done. A single runner around the chest was too much; for about four feet you could not move your head from side to side (F9). On the second day Molly and I did the spectacular crack to the right in two pitches. Harder technically, it ranged from finger- to off-width, but it was a relief after the constriction of the previous day (F10).

Michael Kennedy, Elk Mountain Climbing Club