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North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Castle Crags, North Face of Castle Dome, Northern California

Castle Crags, North Face of Castle Dome, Northern California. On June 22, Clay Cox, Mike Seeley and I climbed this route located in Castle Crags State Park. The climb began with a descent of a gully west of the Dome, to a large fir tree, just before a drop-off. From this tree, easy fifth-class face climbing led around a corner and ended on a huge ledge below the north face. An F8-pitch on the short wall above led to a second, smaller ledge. On the right side of this ledge, an F8, Al corner was followed upward for 60 feet. Above, a 150-foot lead, involving moderate jamming and face climbing, ended 40 feet right of a conspicuous brushy terrace. A difficult traverse was required to reach it. From the left end of this terrace a small F8-dihedral was followed upwards until it merged with a smooth wall. We placed a bolt in order to complete an exposed pendulum to a second, easier open-book on the left. This dihedral led to another ledge. An easy ramp ended at a large pine tree 100 feet higher. The final long lead involved delicate and mostly unprotected face climbing (F8) and ended on the summit. On July 10 Clay Cox and I returned and descended the west gully further, via two rappels. From this point we climbed three pitches of moderate but tricky face climbing to the previously-mentioned huge ledge. Done in its entirety, the climb is 10 pitches. Except for the bolt, we climbed clean. NCCS IV, F8, Al

Lincoln Freese, Unaffiliated