Hot Tuna Tower, Open-Book Route. This tower is located on the east side of Wheeler Crest and is visible from U.S. 395 at the beginning of Sherwin Grade, north of Bishop, California. It is the largest tower in a pink band of granite that intrudes the otherwise grayish granite rock. An open-book splits the east side of the tower, but ends in a ceiling two pitches from the summit. In February David Beiden and I made the laborious 3000-foot approach to the tower and were surprised to find an F10 section in the easier-appearing lower section of the open-book. Higher, we came across a section neither of us could lead. After many tries I threw a nut over a flake and made a five-foot tension traverse out of the difficulties. When the ceiling itself loomed directly overhead, it was David’s lead. He found the rock coated with orange plates and knobs, climbed the pitch quickly, yelled for joy, and rated it F6. The next pitches to the summit were equally enjoyable. The 1000-foot face took six hours and is rated NCCS IV, F10, A2 (one aid move).

Galen Rowell