Whitney Portal Buttress, Sartoris. This route lies on Whitney Portal Buttress a few hundred feet right of the Beckey-Callis route. It was climbed in August by Steve Eddy, Alan Bartlett and me, and starts in the only continuous left-facing crack-flake system in the area. Two difficult crack pitches lead to an easy chimney, which is followed to a ledge. Climb up, then traverse left into a crack which leads into a left- facing book. From the top of the book, climb up, then left into a belay cave. Work left out of the cave to a bolt, then climb up into a prominent water groove which is followed for about 100 feet past a bolt to a two- bolt sling belay. The next pitch goes up and right past three bolts to a small ledge. Climb up, then follow a classic dike about 100 feet to a bolt which protects a difficult move up into a left-facing dihedral. Climb up to a series of small roofs which can be passed on the left, then follow easy cracks to the top. The length, difficulty and quality of the climbing on this route make it comparable to some of the longer Tuolumne Meadows routes. NCCS IV, F10.

Dave Black, Buff Alpine Club