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North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, The Needles, Magician Needle, Magic Dragon

The Needles, Magician Needle, Magic Dragon. In January Neil Carlos and I climbed this 13-pitch route. The first half of the route ascends directly up the spine of the huge buttress (Trojan Horse) which ends halfway up the rock. The long, unprotected pitch after the Horse’s head is followed by a thin crack pitch to the left of the large dihedral. After the next obvious pitch, one long or two short pitches of easy face climbing end at the belay bolt on Black Magic. Two more long class 3 or 4 pitches lead to the summit overhang (F8). All nuts. NCCS III, F8.

Dick Leversee, Unaffiliated