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North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, The Needles, Voodoo Dome, White Punks on Dope

The Needles, Voodoo Dome, White Punks on Dope. On the left of the south side of Voodoo Dome, the major expanse of rock meets a jumbled, somewhat vegetated area and forms a large, left-facing dihedral/ chimney several hundred feet high. Around the corner right of the dihedral’s base is a 200-foot double arch which has a 10-foot roof-like apex. A long crack ascends between the sides of the double arch and continues up and over the apex. In April Eddie Joe, Todd Burrill, Scott Atkinson and I made the first ascent of this route. Pitch 1 : Climb the crack to a hanging belay (F7). Pitch two: Tricky face-climbing with scanty protection reaches the apex. Climb a 10-foot overhanging corner to the left (F9) and continue to a deep belay cave above the arch.

Pitch 3: A deep, third-class chimney leads to a vertical chimney below trees and a huge ledge. Pitch 4: Climb the dihedral (F8) through a wild chimney to a huge chimney flake, which is laybacked to a good belay ledge. Pitch 5: Step around the corner to the right and face-climb to the top of a large flake and bolt. Head right, then up past two bolts, traverse right and then up large holds to a ledge and pine tree. Pitch 6: Climb a finger crack on the left end of the ridge (F8) to the summit. NCCS III, F9.

Dick Leversee, Unaffiliated