North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, The Needles, Voodoo Dome, White Punks on Dope

Publication Year: 1977.

The Needles, Voodoo Dome, White Punks on Dope. On the left of the south side of Voodoo Dome, the major expanse of rock meets a jumbled, somewhat vegetated area and forms a large, left-facing dihedral/ chimney several hundred feet high. Around the corner right of the dihedral’s base is a 200-foot double arch which has a 10-foot roof-like apex. A long crack ascends between the sides of the double arch and continues up and over the apex. In April Eddie Joe, Todd Burrill, Scott Atkinson and I made the first ascent of this route. Pitch 1 : Climb the crack to a hanging belay (F7). Pitch two: Tricky face-climbing with scanty protection reaches the apex. Climb a 10-foot overhanging corner to the left (F9) and continue to a deep belay cave above the arch.

Pitch 3: A deep, third-class chimney leads to a vertical chimney below trees and a huge ledge. Pitch 4: Climb the dihedral (F8) through a wild chimney to a huge chimney flake, which is laybacked to a good belay ledge. Pitch 5: Step around the corner to the right and face-climb to the top of a large flake and bolt. Head right, then up past two bolts, traverse right and then up large holds to a ledge and pine tree. Pitch 6: Climb a finger crack on the left end of the ridge (F8) to the summit. NCCS III, F9.

Dick Leversee, Unaffiliated