American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Eagle Beaks, East Face of North Peak, Thunder Road

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1977

Eagle Beaks, East Face of North Peak, Thunder Road. In May Conrad Van Bruggen, Mark Blanchard and I climbed this enjoyable, seven-pitch route which started at a small pine 100 feet uphill to the right (north) from the low point of the face. Three obvious pitches led up and left to a belay atop a prominent knobby flake. From here we worked up, then straight right (F8 and F9) to a small belay ledge below two narrow, converging arches. The next pitch was the crux— underclinging the left-hand arch, then making a F9 boulder-type move to a crack which was followed by some dicey face climbing to a belay stance. A very long pitch with F8 face-climbing led to the final pitch— an easy crack in the headwall. There was no evidence of a previous ascent. The route lies on the more massive of the three formations known as the Eagle Beaks. Beckey’s 1972 route is on the southern most one. NCCSIII, F9.

Simon King

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