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North America, United States, Alaska, First Ascents in the Arrigetch

First Ascents in the Arrigetch. My two brothers, Carl and Michael, and I spent four weeks in the Arrigetch in the central Brooks Range. We ascended Battleship and Citadel* by obvious class 3–4 routes (in both cases the west ridge) and Pyramid by the route of the 1964 party. East Maiden was climbed by a new route: the south face and the east ridge. We started in the center of the face with three pitches of up to F8 on solid granite which got progressively more difficult, and finally led to a ledge leading right to the east ridge, from where four easier pitches took us to the summit. From there we reached West Maiden by following the ridge west. The first ascent of “Moria” (our name), the major peak east of Shot Tower was made on our second attempt. After an aborted attempt on the north ridge which was reached in 16 pitches, Carl soloed it by its back (south) side. He made a reconnaissance trip into the major valley to the south to scout a route, and finding it a long scramble (class 3–4), he continued up until he reached the spectacular summit. On our final day we made the first ascent of “Marshall Peak” (our name, after Bob Marshall), a lower peak just east of Shot Tower. Six fun pitches of up to F5 up the gully directly north of Shot Tower led to a broad wide bowl. From there it was a class 3–4 scramble on slabs to the summit.

Peter Lehner, Harvard Mountaineering Club

* The names Battleship, Citadel, Pyramid, East and West Maiden, and Shot Tower are from the 1964 party. None of the names in this report are official, but they have been suggested to the U.S. Geological Survey for inclusion on future maps. “Moria” was called “Sodden” by the 1964 party.