American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, McGinnis Peak, Northeast Ridge, Alaska Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1977

McGinnis Peak, Northeast Ridge, Alaska Range. After crossing the Delta River by kayak on June 14, James Brady and I made our approach via the south branch of the McGinnis Glacier. Working right through the icefall at the cirque entrance, we ascended a small glacier tongue extending south from the col between P 9280 and P 9010. High winds and snow pinned us for a day before we attained the unclimbed northeast ridge of McGinnis. Two miles of climbing on this sharp ridge brought us to our high camp at 10,200 feet. The crux of the climb was passing a rock gendarme just above camp. Two pitches of 60° snow plastered on rock and a short ice gully brought us up its right side. The summit headwall was enjoyable step-kicking on good snow. We completed the second ascent of the peak on June 21. By climbing only at night, we found snow conditions more stable with less avalanche danger.

John Garson

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