American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hayes Traverse

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1977

Mount Hayes Traverse. On August 28 John Dattoli flew Jim Jennings, Dave Dausel and me to a gravel bar next to the Trident Glacier for an alpine-style attempt on Mount Hayes. Two days later we climbed up and over Levi’s Bump to camp in the col at the base of Hayes’ east ridge. After a day of whiteout, we moved up to 11,500 feet, where clouds again stopped us. On September 2 we moved up the broad, moderately steep ridge, arriving on top (13,832 feet) at two P.M. We continued down the north side of the summit cap to camp at the start of the exposed cornices at 12,500 feet. After a cold night we worked our way down the north ridge which, in contrast to the east ridge, is long and knife-edged. We sat out a storm for three days before hiking back to our airstrip and completing our 30-mile circuit.

Kenneth C. Irving, Alaska Alpine Club

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