AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks Above the Kahiltna Glacier

Peaks above the Kahiltna Glacier. After unsafe snow conditions prevented our carrying out our plans for climbs on Foraker and Hunter, Roger Robinson and I decided to do the 1200-foot north face of P 8060, which is immediately south of the southeast fork of the Kahiltna. This was a full nine pitches of 60° ice. Some of the pitches were disheartening, for they had a scratchy layer of candle ice. Our descent was down the scenic east ridge to a small saddle from which we rappelled. On July 19 we did the first ascent of P 7660 via the southwest ridge, from which we could peer over the Lacuna Glacier. This peak lies west of the 4800-foot level of the Kahiltna. Between July 21 and 31, Roger and I did the first ascents of P 7510, P 7100, P 7490, P 6910 and P 7390.

Brian Okonek, Mountaineering Club of Alaska