American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks Above the Kahiltna Glacier

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1977

Peaks above the Kahiltna Glacier. After unsafe snow conditions prevented our carrying out our plans for climbs on Foraker and Hunter, Roger Robinson and I decided to do the 1200-foot north face of P 8060, which is immediately south of the southeast fork of the Kahiltna. This was a full nine pitches of 60° ice. Some of the pitches were disheartening, for they had a scratchy layer of candle ice. Our descent was down the scenic east ridge to a small saddle from which we rappelled. On July 19 we did the first ascent of P 7660 via the southwest ridge, from which we could peer over the Lacuna Glacier. This peak lies west of the 4800-foot level of the Kahiltna. Between July 21 and 31, Roger and I did the first ascents of P 7510, P 7100, P 7490, P 6910 and P 7390.

Brian Okonek, Mountaineering Club of Alaska

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