Tripyramid. My two brothers, Carl and Michael, and I spent three weeks around the Traleika Glacier waiting out storms. Our climbs on the three mornings that were clear made up for the lost time. We tried Tatum by its long northeast ridge, but snow falling from the sky and from under our feet stopped us. Later we attempted Silverthrone from our camp at 7300 feet on the glacier draining west from Silverthrone Col. We front-pointed 2000 feet up the steep wall to our south to gain the west ridge of Silverthrone. We followed this up to the 11,270- foot spur in ever-decreasing visibility where a total white-out unfortunately prevented a summit push. We returned via the glacier from Silverthrone Col, an easier route. Carl failed in his attempt (in a total white-out) to take a short cut over the 150-foot bergschrund ice cliff, he only made 30 feet before the rope caught him. It took a while to haul him back up the overhang. We climbed the west peak of Tripyramid by the main couloir extending south from its southwest ridge. With good snow conditions and great weather, this was a most enjoyable climb. From the summit we continued along the ridge to the central peak, an easy hike with fine views.

Peter Lehner, Harvard Mountaineering Club