American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Afghanistan, Kohe Purwakshan, Wakhan Pamir

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Kohe Purwakshan, Wakhan Pamir. The Warsaw expedition was made up of M. Kolaczkowski, Z. Gmaj, W. Gorzko, J.S. Graczyk, M. Mikolajczyk, W. Obojski, S. Saganek, K. Sierakowski, M. Sygowski and me. Our primary object was to explore the Purwakshan valley in the central part of the Wakhan Pamir (north of Rokot and north of the Abe Panj or Oxus River). On our return we visited the region of Kohe Baba Tangi and the Urgunt-e Payan valley in the Hindu Kush. Base Camp was placed at 15,100 feet below the main glacier in the Purwakshan valley. We made the following first ascents: P 5290 (17,356 feet; west of lower valley) by Obojski, Saganek and P 5325 (17,467 feet; east of lower valley) by Mikolajczyk, Popko both on July 22; P 4922 (16,148 feet; just south of P 5290) by Gmaj, Sygowski on July 23; P 5440 (17,881 feet; northwest of P 5290) by Graczyk, Kolaczkowski, Obojski on July 24; Kohe Purwakshan (6080 meters or 19,948 feet; east of glacier) by Mikolajczyk, Popko on July 26 via southwest spur and plateau to main (east) summit; P 6110 (20,046 feet; at head of glacier) by Graczyk, Kolaczkowski, Obojski, Sierakowski on July 31 and by Mikolajczyk, Popko on August 3 via left side of south glacier; P 5544 (18,189 feet; west of glacier) by Gorzko, Saganek, Sygowski on August 1; P 5950 (19,521 feet; west of P 6110) by Popko by traversing from P 6110 on August 3.

Maciej Popko, Polski Zwiazek Alpinizmu (Poland)

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