Asia, Afghanistan, M6, North Face

Publication Year: 1976.

M6, North Face. We placed our Base Camp at 13,500 feet in the Mondaras valley off the Darya Qadzi Deh. Our High Camp was established on a rock rognon at 16,800 feet. Howard Lancashire and I climbed M6 (20,134 feet) by its impressive north face. In alpine-style, we crossed the bergschrund at 2:30 A.M. and climbed steep, hard ice which gave way to sugar snow overlying the ice. We gained the summit ridge at four P.M. but bivouacked at 5:30 P.M. just below the summit, which we reached the next morning. We descended the northeast ridge in six hours. M6 was first climbed in 1972 by Italians. An attempt of M5 by its west ridge failed in bad weather.

Peter Holden, Alpine Club