Asp-e-Safed III, North Face. Our French expedition made the first ascent of the north face of Asp-e-Safed III (c. 20,670 feet) in July and August. After establishing Base Camp at 15,000 feet and Camp I at 16,900 feet, we fixed rope up to 19,350 feet from July 23 to 30. The final assault was alpine style by J.L. Guyonneau, V. Lant and J. Therisod, who reached the summit on August 2 after two bivouacs, and then by M. Legrèves, G. Lemoine and me on August 4. Both groups continued along the ridge to the summit of Asp-e-Safed I (21,349 feet), making the second traverse of the ridge and descending by the north ridge to the 19,350-foot col. The four Asp-e-Safed peaks, whose north faces are from 3300 to 4000 feet high, rise above the Qazi-Deh Glacier. The climb was of sustained serious difficulty, principally on mixed terrain and ice.
André Zagdoun, Club Alpin Français