American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Tirch Mir via West Spur of Tirich Mir West

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Tirich Mir via West Spur of Tirich Mir West. Our expedition again climbed alpine-style and consisted of only Gianni Calgagno and me. We first climbed Tirich Mir (25,290 feet), as a training climb, by the 1967 Czech route from the northwest col, using the fixed ropes left by the Swiss also in 1975. We bivouacked on the col and then climbed mixed ice and rock on crampons to the top on August 11. Our new Italian route ascended the west spur of Tirich Mir West to that summit and on to the main summit. The difference in altitude was 3750 feet. It was mixed climbing with difficulty of IV and two passages of V (UIAA). After some 1650 feet of difficult climbing, we bivouacked at 23,625 feet and ascended to the top on August 25.

Guido Machetto, Club Alpino Italiano

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