American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Tirich Mir. Of the 32 members of our group, 18 including two women reached the summit of Tirich Mir (25,290 feet by the Czech route). On July 13 we established Base Camp at 15,100 feet on the Upper Tirich Glacier. Camp I and II at 16,750 and 19,700 feet were on the glacier. Camp III was at 22,300 feet. From 21,650 to 23,625 feet we climbed a steep couloir which took us to the west shoulder. We fixed some rope in that part. Camp IV was on the shoulder. The summit was reached on July 27 and August 3. The following reached the top: Alois Strickler, Hermann Thurnbichler, Marcel Rüdi, Hans von Känel, Richard Lanzl, Hans Bäni, Hans Zebrowski, Ludwig Hösle, Heinz Bürli, Karl Fischer, Peter and Wastl Wörgötter, Gerhard and Hannelore Schmatz, Max Marti, Richard Franzi, Waldemar Schörghofer and Hanna Müller. Irg Zom (Dirgol Zom) (22,556 feet) was climbed by most to aid acclimatization.

Eugen Reiser, Schweizer Alpen Club

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