American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Purian Sar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Purian Sar. Shinichi Hotta led the Kyoto Karakoram Club expedition to Purian Sar, after waiting for 20 days for a flight from Rawalpindi to Gilgit. They traveled through Imit and Bilhanz, to Base Camp at Bad Swat at 12,175 feet, which they reached on July 22. They established Temporary Camp I at 13,200 feet on July 23, Camp I at 15,425 feet on July 27, Temporary Camp II-1 at 16,475 feet on August 1, Temporary Camp II-2 at 17,000 feet on August 3, and Camp II at 17,725 feet on August 5. This was the center of a great snowfield, where they saw Purian Sar for the first time. A fist-shaped rock stands on the right side of the col on the northwest ridge, on the left side of which they placed Camp III at 18,375 feet on August 6. On August 7 Tsuyoshi Furuichi, Ryuji Hayashibara, Hiroshi Inoue and Yasunori Ito left Camp III at 5:30 A.M. and reached the top (20,647 feet) at eleven A.M. On the 8th Yoshihiro Uchida, Teruhiko Nakajima and Junichi Takahashi reached the summit. On August 10 all were back in Base Camp.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club

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