American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Saraghrar Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Saraghrar Attempt. The members of our expedition were Jordi Colo- mer, leader, Joan Claramunt, Eduard Lluis, Enric Pérez, José L. Pérez, Alfred Martínez, Francesc Sabat, Xavier Tena, Dr. Pere Xaus and I. On July 20 we placed Base Camp at Totiraz Noku (13,650 feet). Our objective was the southwest ridge of Saraghrar (24,075 feet), a steep rock wall, using tactics similar to those of Bonington on the Annapurna south face. On July 23 we placed Camp I at 16,100 feet and began the actual climb from the foot of the wall at 16,650 feet. After several days of bad weather, on the 28th we established Camp II at 17,450 feet, having fixed ropes. On August 4 we placed Camp III at 18,050 feet. Several days of bad weather followed before we climbed a very difficult part of the ridge to a height of 19,600 feet where we placed Camp IV. Bad weather came in again and obliged us to rappel to Camp I, where we spent seven days waiting for better weather. On the 22nd, in nice weather, we started back up the 5500 feet of fixed rope and on August 24 we reached 19,750 feet, but unfortunately the weather changed again. Food and time ran out and so we had to give up.

Ramón Bramona Rams, Club Excursionista de Gracia, Spain

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