Buni Zom, South Face. The Bernina Alpine Club Expedition was led by Masao Okabe and had five more members. They left Chitral on July 14 and began walking at Koghozi on the 16th. They went via Birmoha, Romen, Golen Gol, Chakholi, Bokht, Phargam An to reach Base Camp on the Ghordoghan Glacier at 12,500 feet on July 25. They placed Camp I at 15,750 feet on July 26 to reconnoiter the Ghordoghan Glacier. Camp II, established on July 30, was at 17,000 feet on the east side glacier of the ridge which connects the main and south peaks. Camp III was made at 19,000 feet on August 3. The next day route preparation on the south face got up to 20,175 feet. On August 8 they reached 20,500 feet; five climbers bivouacked at 20,350 feet. On August 9 Masao Okabe, Hideo Sato and Shigeru Tabe climbed the snow face and reached the summit (21,493 feet). Base Camp was evacuated on August 16.
Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club