American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Langar, 1974

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Langar, 1974. In A.A.J., 1975 on page 216 we reported that Italians had climbed Langar but details were lacking. On August 5, 1974 Sergio De Infanti, Mario Qualizza and Aldo Scalettaris reached the summit of Wala Peak 193, which lies just north of Saraghrar North. Wala gives no altitude for this peak but the Italians give 7100* meters (23,294 feet); Wala gives a peak some two miles west of the Italian peak as Langar Main Peak at 7061 meters. The Italians established Base Camp at 13,550 feet at Totiraz Nohu alongside the Roshgol Glacier on July 17, 1974.

Camps I and II were on the glacier at 15,100 and 16,825 feet. Camps III, IV, V and VI were on the steep face, where ropes were fixed, at 18,875, 19,525, 20,500 and 21,325 feet.

* The Hindu Kush expert, Dr. Diemberger, doubts that this peak is more than “nearly 7000 meters.”

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