American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Thui III

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Thui III. Our expedition was composed of H.P. Doswald, Dr. A. Stöckli, Frl. Dr. V. Merz, J. de Vries, H. Bumbacher, M. Dubacher, J. Huber, J. Ineichen, H. Rieder, K. Stadlin, P. Lenggenhager, and me as leader. We placed Base Camp (12,625 feet) between the Qalandar Gum and Agost Bar Glaciers. After establishing Camps I and II (14,600 and 16,400 feet) on the Qalandar Gum Glacier, Doswald, Dubacher and Huber on July 23 climbed the 3300-foot-high southwest ice wall of Thui III (20,260 feet) to make the first ascent. On July 25 Merz, Bumbacher and Stadlin and on July 28 Dubacher, de Vries and I repeated the ascent. An attempt on 20,204-foot Thui Zom was given up when the camp at 15,100 feet below the very difficult north face was destroyed by rockfall. The risk on the 7200-foot-high face was too great. We made the following first ascents: P 5160 (16,929 feet; 2 kilometers northeast of Thui An) on July 30 by Bumbacher, Stöckli; P 5160 (16,929 feet; on the south bank of the Qalandar Gum Glacier and 5 kilometers southwest of Thui III) on July 31 by Dubacher, Huber; P 4920 (16,142 feet; 3 kilometers northeast and southeast of the latter two) on July 28 by Doswald, Huber; P 4900 (16,076 feet; 1300 meters east of Thui An) on July 16 by Dubacher, Huber; P 4580 (15,026 feet; 1 kilometer northeast of Base Camp) on July 22 by Ineichen, de Vries and on August 2 by Stadlin, Stöckli; P 4398 (14,430 feet; 1½ kilometers west of Base Camp) on July 29 by Lenggenhager, Merz, de Vries.

Hans Schibli, Schweizer Alpen Club

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