American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Thui Group, Hindu Raj

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Thui Group, Hindu Raj. The Edinburgh Hindu Raj Expedition was composed of Dave Broadhead, George Gibson, Dave Page, Des Rubens and me. We traveled by jeep from Gilgit to Yasin and continued for four days through Thui and Sholtali to Base Camp at 14,000 feet on the Borumbar Glacier. Thui I has two separate tops. The higher is 6660 meters (21,654 feet) and is marked as No. 27 on Diemberger’s map of the Hindu Raj (Himalayan Journal, 1971, XXXI, p. 320). The second higher is No. 26, P 6400 (20,998 feet), at the head of the Panarillo and Borumbar Glaciers. P 6400 was climbed on August 5 by Gibson, Rubens and me from a camp on a plateau at 20,000 feet. A previous attempt on July 31 by Broadhead and Page reached a subsidiary peak between the two summits. It would seem that the difference between the heights of the two peaks is rather less than the 260 meters given by Diemberger. To the south of the peak we climbed there are four peaks on the east side of the Borumbar Glacier. We climbed them all. The northernmost pair (c. 20,000 and 20,300 feet) were climbed by Rubens and me on August 7. The southern ones (c. 18,500 and 18,000 feet) were climbed by various separate parties between July 19 and 26. We attempted Thui III twice from the Borumbar side. On the second attempt we climbed an obvious couloir which leads up from the glacier to the main watershedand thence to a top which lies a half-mile east and a few hundred feet lower than the main summit. An attempt was also made on Thui II, crossing from the Borumbar to the Qalandar Gum Glacier. Rubens and I followed the latter to its head and traversed a subsidiary peak of 20,000 feet to a 19,800-foot col immediately north of Thui II. Bad weather foiled the final attempt, but the climb appears fairly straightforward.

Geoffrey Cohen, University of Edinburgh, Scotland

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