American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Nanga Parbat Attempt. The approach of the Felix Kuen Memorial Expedition, led by Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer, was considerably complicated by their not being able to go along or cross the Karakoram Highway being built by the Chinese. Although they arrived in Pakistan on May 7, it was not until May 30 that the western part of the expedition was established at Base Camp at Dhaigiri, a little above their Base Camps of 1960, 1968 and 1970. They attempted three routes. The Toni Kinshofer route ascended the southwest ridge to the Felix Kuen Icefield and then was to continue up the Diamir side over the south peak and south shoulder to the 26,660-foot summit. Four camps were established, Camps II, III and IV at 19,350, 23,000 and 24,275 feet respectively. The weather was consistently bad. There were only two cloudless, windless days in the 40 they were on the mountain. Hillmaier, Beyerlein and Margret Schnait spent a whole week stormbound in Camp III. Hillmaier and Beyerlein were finally able to establish Camp IV and after reaching a high point of 24,775 feet descended 150 feet on the traverse to the Diamir side. Weather prevented their going further. A group reconnoitered the southeast buttress to 18,375 feet. The eastern part of the expedition established three high camps, the highest at 21,000 feet, just below Rakiot Peak. Manfred and Christa Sturm with Margret Schnait and one other made the second ascent of Toshain (c. 20,000 feet; for first ascent, see A.A.J., 1975, 20:1, pages 213-4. —Editor). (We are very grateful to Dr. Herrligkoffer for supplying this information.)

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