American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Malubiting Central

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Malubiting Central. The expedition of the Iwate Section of the Japanese Alpine Club was led by Junjiro Kasahara and Toshihiko Sato. They left Skardu and traveled through Yuno and Arandu to reach Base Camp on the Chogolungma Glacier at 14,000 feet on July 8. Camp I was placed on the upper plateau of the icefall at 16,750 feet on July 12. Camp II or Advanced Base was established at 19,150 feet on the Polan La on July 21, Camp III under the north peak at 20,675 feet on July 28 and Camp IV at 21,325 feet on the upper plateau on July 31. On August 1 Masahide Onodera, Hedeki Atsumi, Toshinori Takahashi and Kazuhiko Moro bivouacked at 23,000 feet on the west wall of the Central Peak of Malubiting. They reached the summit (23,820 feet) at nine A.M. on August 2 after two hours of plowing through deep snow. On August 3 Hisashi Ito slipped from a fixed rope on the north ridge of the north peak and was found dead on the Barpu Glacier. On the 5th all were back in Base Camp.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club

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