American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Urdok I and Hidden Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Urdok I and Hidden Peak. The Austrian Karakoram Expedition was made up of the German Dr. Karl Hub and Austrians Dr. Helmut Preve- del, Herbert Zefferer, Robert Schauer, my wife Leselotte and me as leader. Though we had originally headed for Baltoro Kangri we changed for the American route on Hidden Peak at the same time that Messner and Habeler were on the north face. Schauer, Zefferer and I got to the summit the day after the other party, on August 11, to complete the third ascent. After finally arriving at Skardu on July 2, we got to Base Camp at 17,000 feet on the South Gasherbrum Glacier on July 13. Camps I, II, III and IV were placed at 18,375, 21,000, 22,300 and 23,950 feet. We fixed rope on most of the ridge, which we found more difficult than we had expected. The Americans describe traversing snow bands right below the summit col at about 25,900 feet, but we had to cross bands of fairly rotten rock there. We reached the top at six P.M. On August 4, all of us except for Dr. Prevedel had made the first ascent of Urdok I (23,950 feet) from Camp III.

Hanns Schell, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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