AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Lopsang Peak

Lopsang Peak. Like most expeditions this year in the Baltoro Glacier area, we ran into problems. The sudden opening of the region brought a flood of expeditions, overtaxing the limited facilities. The porters took full advantage of the seller’s market. We therefore had troubles with the government, the local Balti people, our liaison officer and the poor weather. We passed the more exciting objectives as we moved up the Baltoro, namely the Uli Biaho Spire and the Trango group. The granitic formations deteriorated as we advanced but we made the best of what we had. The film crew caught up to us in Rawalpindi and they accompanied several members of the expedition to the summit of Karphogang (19,560 feet), a snow dome just west of the Mustagh La. On June 19 Yvon Chouinard, Dr. Joel Malta, George Lowe and Doug Tompkins reached the top. On June 18 Don Lauria, Mike Covington and I climbed Lopsang Peak (20,423 feet) via its southern couloir. Shortly after these climbs, four members left for Skardu. Lowe, Lauria and I made three attempts on P 18,700, located on the southeastern spur of Mount Biange. We reached 18,000 feet on the west arête before retreating in a storm. All the climbing was done alpine-style, which accounts for our lack of accomplishments.

Dennis Hennek