Asia, Pakistan, Trango Tower Attempt

Publication Year: 1976.

Trango Tower Attempt. A British expedition gave up their attempt on the Trango Tower after Martin Boysen came close to being the victim of an unusual accident some 600 feet below the summit. On a difficult free and aid pitch, Boysen jammed his leg in a wide crack and could not remove it. His companion, Mo Anthoine, was unable to help. Finally two hours later, Boysen managed to cut his trouser leg off with a piton and freed himself. Time and food were running out and the attempt was given up. The climbers, who also included Ian McNaught-Davis, Joe Brown, Will Barker and Dave Potts, had climbed the gully south of the tower, where they placed Camp I. Above, the climbing became difficult, being either iced-up rock or mixed climbing. Camp II was a snow cave in the snowfield a third of the way up the rock tower.