American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, K12

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

K12. Yoshihiko Yamamoto led the Ichikawa Alpine Club expedition. They left Khapalu on June 17 and were at Advanced Base on the Lofomorumba Glacier at 15,000 feet when a violent snow storm caused their porters to run away. Camp I was established on July 4 at 16,750 feet, Camp II on July 10 at the end of the plateau at 17,725 feet, Camp III on July 18 at 18,700 feet under the col on the northwest ridge after crossing the plateau, Camp V on July 27 at 22,000 feet and Camp VI on August 3 at 23,300 feet. On August 4 Shigeru Kawana, Sueo Ohta and Masaru Takeyama reached the summit (24,505 feet). On the way down they bivouacked at 23,625 feet. (The summit pair of the Kyoto University party in 1974 was lost during the descent. See A.A.J., 1975, 20:1, page 210. — Editor.)

Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club

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