American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Tos Valley, Kulu

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Tos Valley, Kulu. The North of England Expedition went from the Hindu Kush on to Kulu. In this part of the expedition were Michael Hosted, Miss Terry Funk (Swiss), John Darling, Ernest Shield, the local Sherpa Rinzing, my wife Dawn and I. We set off on September 2 to approach Base Camp at the head of the Tos valley via the Parbati valley. The monsoon ran very late and for a while we were restricted to reconnaissance with ascents of two 5000-meter peaks above Base Camp and establishing Camp I on the East Tos Glacier at 14,175 feet. In the final two weeks we made the following first ascents: Tiger Tooth (5880 meters or 19,292 feet; north above the head of the East Tos and the Tichu Glaciers) via west ridge on September 30 by P. Bean, Shield, Darling; Angdu Ri (5800 meters or 19,029 feet; north of East Tos Glacier between White Sail and P 20,495) via east ridge on September 30 by Hosted, Funk, Rinzing; and P 5880 (19,029 feet; north of East Tos Glacier between P 20,495 and Tiger Tooth) via west ridge on October 3 by Darling, Rinzing. For Tiger Tooth we had to camp first at the end of the upper East Tos Glacier and then over a 5000-meter barrier ridge on the upper Tichu Glacier.

Paul Bean, Cleveland Mountaineering Club, England

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