American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Alfred Adolphe Couttet, Armand Charlet, Georges Tairraz

  • In Memoriam
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Trisul. The 1975 Seattle Garhwal-Himalaya Expedition was led by Michael Clarke; other members were Jan Balut, David Hambly, Ray Jewell, Carl Moore, Gordon Thomas and I. We traveled by bus through the gorges of the Alaknanda to Lata. There we met our twenty-odd porters and an untold number of sheep and goats and began the march in the footsteps of Shipton and Tilman up and into the Rishi Ganga Gorge. By May 25 Base Camp was established at 15,000 feet, somewhat higher than Longstaff’s “Juniper Camp” of the 1907 first ascent. We followed Longstaff’s route by the northeast shoulder. Camp I at 18,000 feet was dug out on a gentle snow slope; Camp II nestled in a splendid snow basin at 20,300 feet. On June 3, four members made an unsuccessful summit bid. Another attack was initiated and all members moved to Camp II on June 7. One day’s bad weather forced inactivity, but on June 9 all but Moore and our Indian liaison officer, Flying Officer U.K. Palat, gained the summit at one P.M. The panorama was marvelous, with Nanda Devi, Changabang, Kalanka, Dunagiri and Kamet prominent. The descent and return trek were uneventful until a pagan sheep barbecue on Malatuni Pass.

P.S. Marshall, Three Corner Round

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