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Asia, India, Garhwal, Dunagiri, Southeast Face

Dunagiri, Southeast Face. Our expedition consisted of two members: Joseph Trasker and me. After a two-week wait in New Delhi, the Indian Mountaineering Foundation supplied us with a liaison officer, who returned to New Delhi after completing only three days of the march-in. We climbed the southeast face of Dunagiri (23,184 feet), reaching the summit on October 8. We climbed alpine-style without porters or fixed camps. The 5000-foot-high face had in its lower half a rock ridge with snow and ice sections. The crux was at 21,000 feet where we encountered steep rock, which required some artificial aid, and difficult mixed climbing. We carried six days of food and bivouac equipment. The ascent took seven days and the descent by the same route, four more. During the descent the fingers of both my hands were frostbitten.

R.M. Renshaw, Alpine Club