American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri IV

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Dhaulagiri IV. The Kamoshika Dojin party was led by Kazuyuki Takashashi and had 11 other members including one woman. They set up Base Camp in the Myagdi Khola at 11,325 feet on September 1. The first step was to climb as far as Myagdi Matha (20,538 feet). Camps I (15,250 feet), II (17,225 feet) and III (18,850 feet) were established on the southeast ridge of that peak. Camp IV was placed on September 24 on the summit of Myagdi Matha but later moved some 200 feet lower. The second step is between Maygdi Matha and the col at 22,650 feet via the Inner Sanctuary. Camp V was in the bottom of the basin at 17,000 feet. Camps VI and VII were at 20,350 and 21,325 feet. Camp VIII was on the col, from which the southwest ridge begins. Camp IX was on the ridge at 23,625 feet. The following reached the summit: Kazuyaki Takahashi and Yoshiteru Takahashi on October 19; Kuniaki Yagihara, Minoru Kobayashi, Tomo Negishi, Kosaku Suda, Shigehito Kogure and Yasuo Morozumi on October 20; and Tsutomu Miyazaki and Kozo Komatsu on October 21.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club

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