Mawenzi, East Face. The members of our expedition who made this climb were Dario Mozzanica, Bruno Deangeli, Giovanni Balossi and I. At dawn on February 12 we left our bivouac on the south side of Mawenzi and in 12 hours climbed five 13,000-foot ridges, dropping between to less than 11,500 feet. We bivouacked in sight of the east face at 13,800 feet. On the 13th we descended into the Gran Barranco to 10,500 feet and bivouacked on the wall of the middle spur some 350 feet higher, having placed 18 pitons. On the 14th we climbed a dihedral with 26 pitons to a bivouac some 500 feet higher. On the 15th, except for one ledge of sound rock, we struggled up the rotten edge to climb to the crest of the middle spur, where we placed our fourth bivouac at 14,000 feet. On the 16th we climbed easy friable rock to the last steep step. We climbed this up a funnel with 16 pitons. We continued up mixed rock and ice with difficulties comparable to the Major route on Mont Blanc. At seven P.M. we reached the summit of Point Brochers. We rappelled down the west face in the dark.
Ivo Mozzanica, Club Alpino Italiano