Africa, Nyabubuya, Northeast Gully, Ruwenzori Group

Publication Year: 1976.

Nyabubuya, Northeast Gully, Ruwenzori Group. Our party included Frank Eastwood, David Higgs, Dr. Arnold Pines, Roger Reid, Alan Roberts and me. We climbed Mount Baker, Mount Speke and the four peaks of Mount Stanley. In addition, on July 21 Alan Roberts and Higgs made one new route: Nyabubuya (15,950 feet), the southeast extremity of the southern Stanley peaks. The eleven pitches took five hours. From the Elena Huts they traversed across the Elena Glacier and terraced rocks to the foot of the climb, which starts in a groove. The crux pitches occur halfway up, where overhangs barred a direct line. They climbed right on very steep, greasy slabs. A right-hand slant finally led to the summit ridge.

Eric Roberts, Alpine Club