AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Chile and Argentina, Patagonia, Cerro Moyano

Cerro Moyano. After six unsuccessful attempts on Cerro Moyano, our expedition reached the summit (9350 feet) on February 2, 1976. This was the last unclimbed major peak in the range between Lakes Viedma and Argentino; it is only slightly less difficult than Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Luis Estevez, Guillermo Vieiro, Hector Cuiñas, Pablo Nicola, Luciano Pera, Mario Serrano and me as leader. We flew to Río Gallegos and traveled by truck to Lago Viedma. From there we took horses to reach Base Camp at 1300 feet on January 25. We placed Camp I at 5900 feet on February 1. Cuiñas, Vieiro and I climbed the north face and northeast ridge. We started up a snow couloir to reach the 2000-foot-high face (UIAA V to VI, A1). From a little col we climbed the ridge with its towers (V to VI) to a 350-foot-high mushroom of ice. On the top of the mushroom we had to traverse 250 feet before the slope eased off to the summit. We got to the top at nine P.M. and descended after a bivouac the next day.

Jorge SkvarCa, Club Andino Bariloche