American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chile and Argentina, Patagonia, Fitz Roy Region, 1975

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Fitz Roy Region, 1975. We can add a few names and details to the preliminary report given in A.A.J., 1975 on page 188. The Swiss who made a one-day ascent from the col of the American route on Fitz Roy in early 1975 were Hans Peter Trachsel, Paul von Kanel and Ernst von Allmen. Trachsel and von Kanel then made the first ascent of the southern and slightly lower summit of Aguja Bífida, a needle north of Cerro Torre. They climbed to the col which separates Bífida from Cerro Stanhardt and forced their way up the southwest ridge. They did not have sufficient ice gear or rope to ascend the northern summit. The Australians who attempted the north face (northeast buttress) of Fitz Roy alpine-style were Rick White and Bob Staszewski. After several attempts they finally climbed two-thirds of the face before bad weather drove them off for the last time.

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