American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Suihuiri and Minaspata, Cordillera Chila

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Surihuiri and Minaspata, Cordillera Chila. I was in overall charge of the Japan Inner Amazon Expedition and Ichiyo Muko was leader. Ko Hagiwara and Kohichi Miura entered the Cordillera Chila, east of Coropuna and north of Ampato, the main and longest source of the Amazon River. They drove to Quencco and walked to the head of the Quebrada Pacopampa and Base Camp at 16,400 feet on September 5. On the 7th they left at 7:45 and walked for three miles along scree at about 17,000 feet to reach a col below Minaspata at 12:45. They traversed along the steep east side of the north ridge and reached the ridge crest in its middle, which was difficult walking with many penitentes. They reached the summit of Minaspata (18,061 feet) at 2:35. They descended the north side of the east ridge, past more penitentes, to a col at 3:50 and bivouac. On the 8th at 9:15 they traversed the northwest side of the peak opposite the col and climbed the north ridge to arrive on top at 11:25. They descended to the southwest to a col. From there they climbed the long northwest ridge of Surihuiri over penitentes, false summits and a rock peak on the north side to reach a gentle snow ridge. They got to the summit of Surihuiri (18,064 feet) at 2:50 P.M., a wide snowfield in a thick fog. They returned by the same route to the bivouac. On the 9th they crossed along the eastern face of Minaspata to Base Camp.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club

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