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South America, Peru, Huagaruncho, Northeast Ridge

Huagaruncho, Northeast Ridge. The Workers’ Mountain Club of Takamatsu Expedition was composed of Hideaki Naoi, leader, Akira Yamada, Hiroshi Kuriyama, Tomomi Akiyama (female), Yoshiki Mitsumoto (female), Kazuhiro Oka and Masao Hashimoto. Leaving Huachón on June 10, they packed over three passes to the Quebrada Huagaruncho and on June 11 over another pass to place Base Camp at 14,000 feet on a terrace near a lake up in Río Huarancayo. They decided on the unclimbed northeast ridge. Camp I was placed on June 17 at 15,950 feet on the col south of Peak 29. They prepared the route in the next days, reaching a minor summit at 17,925 feet on June 28. On the 29th they prepared the route to the col in the northeast ridge at 17,625 feet beyond the minor peak. They placed Camp II in the col on July 1. The route was then prepared to 18,000 feet on the 3rd. On July 4 Hashimoto, Yamada and Oka reached the summit (18,799 feet), followed on July 6 by Akiyama, Mitsumoto, Oka and Naoi.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club