Millpo Grande. The Millpo group lies south of the Huayhuash and separated from it by the Pumarinri valley and west of the Raura and separated from it by the Surasaca valley. After the 1974 Italian expedition, the eastern side of the group remained to be explored and the highest point to be climbed. Those who took part in the expedition were Celso Salvetti, leader, Fabio Masciadri, Vittorio Meroni, Italo Valmaggia and I. Leaving Lima on July 29, we set up camp in the Champahuay-pampa valley at 15,500 feet on August l and a high camp in the col between Millpo Grande and Millpo Chico on August 3. On the following day, Meroni and I climbed the ice-covered south face and overcoming difficulties with ice pitons, reached the summit of Millpo Grande (18,400 feet). On August 6 all members reached the summit of Millpo Norte (17,700 feet), climbing the east face alternately on rock and snow. During the following days we climbed three other minor peaks of about 16,500 feet.

Lodovico Gaetani, Club Alpino ltaliano