American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Puscanturpa Norte, Northwest Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Puscanturpa Norte, Northwest Face. An Italian expedition led by Graziano Bianchi and composed of Felice Boselli, Giuseppe Buizza, Giuseppe Caneva, Agostino Da Polenza, Carlo Milani, Gino Mora and Edoardo Pozzoli returned to Puscanturpa Norte, which they had unsuccessfully attempted in 1974 (A.A.J., 1975, 20:1, p. 165; photo p. 167). They traveled by truck through Oyón to Surasaca Lake (14,450 feet). The approach took them two days from there via Viconga Lake and Cuyoc Pass to arrive on July 27 at Base Camp at 15,250 feet. Reconnaissance and ferrying loads went on immediately. They found they could use some but not all of the rope fixed the year before. On July 29 they were already at the 1974 high point at 17,000 feet. Camp I was set up near there on July 30, a veritable eagle’s nest. The difficulties were continuous, extreme and comparable to those of the Dolomites, first on rock and then on mixed terrain. Finally on August 4 they placed a camp on a little saddle below the last 500-foot rock pitch. Bianchi and Da Polenza found a route to the right of the overhangs. They prepared the route on August 5 and nearly reached the summit snow ridge. On the 6th they climbed the last 250 feet of rock to reach the snow-covered ice of the final ridge, which they followed to the summit (18,541 feet) of this precipitous and difficult peak. (Compiled from information graciously sent by Signor Bianchi.)

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.