American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Sarapo, Southwest Ridge, 1974

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1976

Sarapo, Southwest Ridge, 1974. The members of our expedition to Sarapo were Giovanni Albertelli, Italo Bazzani, Pietro Favalli, Erminio Guerrini, Alfredo Rocca, Guido Rocco, Francesco Veclani, Franco Aliprandi and I as leader. From Cajatambo we crossed the San Cristóbal Pass to Pumarinri valley, which we descended to the river junctions, ascended and went up the Huallapa valley to where it branches, the right going to Lake Jurau. We kept left up a very steep section which opened into the broad Quebrada Sarapococha, at the end of which we placed Base Camp at 14,100 feet. On July 18 we went past Sarapococha (lake) and climbed moraine to reach the Siulá Glacier. We placed Camp I up the glacier at 15,850 feet. From Camp I we headed east and then south when wide crevasses prevented progress, skirting under the enormous walls of Siulá Chico and Siulá Grande. Camp II was at 16,925 feet. It was 200 yards south to the base of the center of the northwest face of Sarapo. On July 29 Bazzini and Rocco set out, supported by Guerrini and Veclani. The upper lip of the bergschrund overhung and had to be crossed on the right side of a small hanging sérac. The face was 1300 feet high and presented difficulties because of its 70° angle and unstable snow and ice. When they reached the southwest ridge at 18,475 feet, they had to climb the crest for 800 feet with great difficulty because of unstable snow and vertical steps. They dug out a bivouac at 18,900 feet on the ridge. On July 30 they climbed the rest of the ridge to reach a great funnel in the south face. They climbed the funnel straight up until they veered right up an ice spur which led to a steep, dangerous couloir that ended on the summit (20,155 feet).

Tullio Corbellini, Club Alpino Italiano

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