American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Jangyaraju and Vallunaraju Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Jangyaraju and Vallunaraju Group. On June 20, 28 members and friends of the Club Andinista Cordillera Blanca left Huaraz for the Quebrada Llaca as a weekend family affair. On June 21 the climbing members established camp at the base of the eastern glacier of Vallunaraju Sur directly below the south-ridge col. That afternoon Curry Slaymaker, Dan Langmade, David Ciochetti and I prepared a route through the soft crusted snow to the col. The following day three routes were made to the summit (18,389 feet) of Vallunaraju Sur: Mauro Arias, Pat Miller, César Aguirre and Joachim Packa via the central col and north ridge, Langmade and Slaymaker via the northwest face and north ridge and Ciochetti via the west face and south ridge. On August 1 Slaymaker and Ciochetti established camp at 16,400 feet in the Jangyaraju glacial basin. From there they climbed Jangyaraju Oeste (17,881 feet) via the west ridge and Vallunaraju Norte (18,675 feet) via the north ridge on August 2 and Jangyaraju Este (18,675 feet) via the northwest ridge and Jangyaraju Central (18,471 feet) via the southeast ridge.

Michael Rourke

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